• [18] By the end of 2005, Miller herself, who claimed later that her boho look was not very original – “I think I’d just come back from traveling or something”[19] – had adopted
  other styles of dress and her shorter, bobbed hairstyle – ironically a feature of bohemian fashion in the quarter century before World War II – helped to define a new trend in 2007.

• “[60] A retrospective piece published in Grazia in 2000 said of Zoe: “Styling her clients not just for the red carpet but for pap-bait Starbucks runs, she was the architect
  of the boho-meets-rock chic look that came to define a new breed of Hollywood ‘it’-girls who were as adept at setting trends as they were at causing trouble: Nicole Richie, Lindsay Lohan, Mischa Barton exemplified the moment (pre their The
  Row paring-down, the Olsens – not Zoe clients – were working a similar look).

• The London Evening Standard referred to “hippie chic” (a term used in the 1990s with reference to the velvet kaftans created by Tom Ford for the Italian house of Gucci) in
  a feature about “gypsy queens”,[91] while the Sunday Times, reflecting on what “the fashion world called … boho chic”, referred to Sienna Miller’s having created “the retro hippie look that swept Britain’s high streets”.

• Welch has cited as her stylistic icons singer Marianne Faithfull, who had been closely associated with the Rolling Stones in the 1960s,[74] and her former English teacher
  who used to “come to school in crushed-velvet gowns like a medieval maiden[75] However, her stage image called to mind the pre-Raphaelite muses[76] who, in certain respects, had anticipated the hippie styles of a century later.

• [29] In 2011 “destination dressing” for Ibiza was still deemed to “embrace boho chic with a hint of understated glamour”[30] When, in August 2007, Sienna and Savannah Miller
  launched their own fashion label, Twenty8Twelve (so-called after Sienna’s birthday, 28 December), one commentator referred to Sienna’s “own brand of Notting Hillbilly chic” (a reference to London W10) and remarked that, “with [her] love of
  all things boho, it’s unsurprising to see a thread of louche, folksy styling running through the line”.

• An illustration of this, just as boho as such appeared to near its end, was M&S’s use of 1960s’ icon Twiggy and younger models such as Laura Bailey (“the natural choice for
  the season’s bohemian chic”[63]) for a major advertising campaign in late 2005.

• [34] At the beginning of June that year fashion writer Carrie Gorman announced that “this week, shopping is about going bright and bold with a boho feel”, citing, among other
  trends, multi-coloured tank tops (“or dress, according to your height”) by Harlow, said to be the favorite label of American actress Rachel Bilson.

• [79] Reflecting on Welch’s broader influence, one rock journalist noted in 2010 that “even Cheryl Cole [of Girls Aloud and an X Factor judge] has gone gothic princess on her
  … single, “Promise This”, and she’s looking very Florence in the video, all black leotards and raggedy tutus”.

• “[22] Even so, the so-called “folk” look of spring 2007, with its smock tops and flounce hemmed dresses, owed much to boho-chic, while embracing such trends as the re-emergence
  of the mini-dress: as the Sunday Times put it, “if you are still bemoaning the passing of the gypsy look, then the folk trend could be your saving grace”.

• [38] In the same year, a journalist wrote of Deschanel: … she’s the antistarlet … She tiptoes in looking like a graceful version of boho-chic 29-year-olds found everywhere
  from Brooklyn to Silver Lake, with an Obama [Democratic Presidential candidate] button on her vintage coat and [t]he New Yorker rolled up in her pocket…[39] Deschanel’s “kooky” style[40] subsequently found a popular outlet as Los Angeles
  teacher Jess Day, whom she played in the Fox TV sitcom, New Girl (2011-2018).

• [55] In that year, Miller’s appearance as the poet Dylan Thomas’s wife, Caitlin Macnamara in the film The Edge of Love caused one journalist to refer to “a new romantic style:
  woe-ho chic”[56] This referred to the austerity clothing of the 1940s, worn also in the film by Keira Knightley: A beguillingly shambolic Sienna is seen sobbing on the beach busting a wartime make-do-and-mend look: boiled-wool cardie over
  flowery tea dress over folded-down wellies over long woolly socks.

• [53] Nevertheless, it was the apparently unaffected ease with which Sienna Miller (dubbed by some as the “new Kate Moss”[54]) carried off the look that brought it into the
  mainstream: even in advertisements for Chloé early in 2005 Miller was shown as if casually shopping, while she told Vogue that she had a laid-back approach to grooming, including cutting her own hair.

• [87] It subsequently labelled a photographic spread of Sienna Miller, Lauren Bailey, Erin O’Connor and other muses of Matthew Williamson as “boho babes”,[88] advised its readers
  to “think art-school chic” by adopting layers of clashing colours[18] and, in 2006, noted that “last year’s boho babe” had become “this year’s boho-rock chick”.

• [96] Related trends Olsen twins and American bobo[edit] In the United States, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, especially the former, were credited with a “homeless” look, first
  identified as such in Greenwich Village, New York in late 2004, that had many “boho” features (large sunglasses, flowing skirts, boots and loose jumpers).

• [46] Women wearing bohemian clothing In 2010 the Sunday Times anticipated that the medieval head chain – “a step on from the hippie head band” – would be a feature of that
  year’s festival circuit, “instantly adding summer bohemia to your look”.

• “[19] 2007–08: folk, “diluted”, and Balearic boho[edit] In the autumn of 2006, The Times’ style director Tina Gaudoin observed that “when the women’s wear buyer at M[arks]
  & S[pencer] is quoted saying ‘boho is over’, you know the trend is well and truly six foot under.

• In fact, as early as May 2005 the Sunday Times Style magazine had declared that “overexposed” white peasant skirts were “going down”[17] and had advised adherents of boho
  to “update your boho mojo” by mixing the look with metallic items (anticipating so-called “boho-rock” in 2006) or with layers.

• Sienna Miller’s gipsy skirt brigade somehow didn’t finish this feminine trend off for good, and some of the less contrived ingredients – embroidery, leather, gentle frills
  – are back Mischa Barton in 2006 Noting that “this time it’s much more about a deconstructed, looser version of English Country Garden style”, London Lite recalled the early 1970s designs of Laura Ashley – “all folds of floral cotton and centre
  partings”.

• [90] According to the newspaper, this look, which took its influence from both boho style and “the heavy influence of folk culture”, had been seen on the likes of Sienna Miller
  and Kate Moss.

• Momsen described her style as “sweet and tough, grunge meets Chanel – a giant oxymoron” and claimed that she chose her outfits from “whatever clean clothes she finds on her
  floor” (“although no one ever believes me”).

• Jess’s fashion preferences, including some striking brassières in a range of colours,[41] attracted much interest, while, around the same time, Anastasia (Ana) Steel’s tastes
  in E. L. James’ best-selling erotic novel Fifty Shades of Grey (2011) were thought to have assisted sales of exotic lingerie.

• Elements The boho look, which owed much to the hippie styles that developed in the middle to late 1960s, became especially popular after Sienna Miller’s appearance at the
  Glastonbury Festival in 2004,[8] although some of its features were apparent from photographs of her taken in October 2003[9] and of others living in or around the postal district of W10 (North Kensington), an area of London associated with
  bohemian culture since the mid-1950s.

• [27] Sienna Miller has written that, when she first met Williamson, whose muse she became,[28] in her mother’s kitchen in 2001 she had a magazine on the table with Jade Jagger
  wearing the most beautiful bright dress I had ever seen.

• Recession of 2008–10: broderie, exotic lingerie, 70s glam/beatnik[edit] Zooey Deschanel in 2008 In 2008 fashion consultant Gok Wan cited a broderie anglaise top worn by Nadine
  Coyle of the group Girls Aloud as evidence that “the folk/boho look is so hot for summer”,[33] while Marks & Spencer employed the headline “Bohemian Rhapsody” to summarise its summer range, which owed much to the colours and patterns of the
  early 1970s.

• It was described by a student fashion writer as “paying to look poor” and having been “made popular by silver screen stars who all look like they got dressed in the dark like
  the Olsen twins, Kirsten Dunst and Chloë Sevigny”.

• In 2008 the Sunday Times applied the term “real chic” to a group of “the chicest celebrities”, including Miller and actresses Julie Christie and Marion Cotillard, who “handle
  the glare of fame with a large dose of reality”, Miller being described as “a professional free spirit who, annoyingly, seems to have more fun than anyone else”.

• Elson told a Times journalist that she had always been “the weird looking one” in modelling circles and remarked of herself and her then husband Jack White of the rock duo
  White Stripes that “there’s going to be a point when our children view us as the Addams Family”.

• [6] Designer Savannah Miller, elder sister of actress Sienna Miller, described a “real bohemian” as “someone who has the ability to appreciate beauty on a deep level, is a
  profound romantic, doesn’t know any limits, whose world is their own creation, rather than living in a box”.

• Since then, many younger artists/designers have begun to revive the boho style, as can be seen on such sites as ‘etsy’ and ‘boho-andromeda.com’, which illustrate how boho
  has never, and probably will never, leave the true art and fashion world.

• [31] However, the same writer observed wryly that “quite how many French peasants hoed fields in printed smocks is undocumented” and felt that one particular shirt-dress was
  “a little too reminiscent of Nancy in Oliver Twist”.

• Fast fashion[edit] The impact of boho illustrated certain broader trends in what Shane Watson referred to as “the way we dress now”:[67] that fashion was increasingly being
  dictated, not by the main houses, but what Watson called “the triple-F crowd” (the F referring to the f’s in “famous and fashion-forward”), of which Kate Moss, Lindsay Lohan and Sienna Miller were exemplars.

• [103] At the end of the 2000s (decade), this combination of apparently conflicting features was adopted by teenaged actress Taylor Momsen, who, in 2010, became the “face”
  of the British retailing chain New Look.

• [72] The gothic look was in vogue again in the autumn of 2007, a sleeker “dark Victorian style” being associated with, among others, Sienna Miller, twin actresses Mary-Kate
  and Ashley Olsen (through their clothing label, The Row), the Australian model Gemma Ward[73] and the rising Ukrainian singer Mika Newton (the latter notably in photographs associated with her début album of 2005, Anomaliya).

• Similarly, her lingerie portfolio that year for Agent Provocateur combined gothic and boho-rock features,[82] there being, for example, a certain resonance between a black
  and white brassiere and panties set that formed part of that collection and the black swimsuit in which Zooey Deschanel was photographed in 2008.

• [23] The Sunday Times cited the 1960s singer Mary Hopkin as influencing the use of bandannas,[23] while, around the same time, Sienna Miller’s appearance as 1960s “starlet”
  Edie Sedgwick in the film Factory Girl positioned her once more as a bohemian style icon.

• [59][60] Writing in Guardian, Lauren Cochrane wrote, that Zoe “was one of the first stylists to put the vintage “look” on the red carpet.

• Many elements of boho-chic became popular in the late 1960s and some date back much further, being associated, for example, with pre-Raphaelite women of the mid-to-late 19th
  century.

• [25] The Tatler wrote of Jagger – “the original ‘Boho'” – that she “lives, breathes and creates a certain kind of contemporary “bohemian” chic”, although Jagger herself claimed
  to be “a little wary of the word “bohemian””, describing her approach as “daring to mix … combining things that are unexpected”.

• Like Welch, Elson exuded pre-Raphaelite features, though a marked gothic strain was also apparent when, as a singer on stage in 2009, she wore a long salmon dress with black
  lace edging.

• [31] The following year, the Sunday Times, noting that one in two Americans and one in five Britons were reportedly sporting tattoos, observed that Miller “complete[d] her
  luxe-layabout look with a cluster of stars on her silken shoulder”;[32] that she had also a tattoo of a bluebird, the subject of both a poem by Charles Bukowski and a drawing by Edie Sedgwick; and that Kate Moss displayed “two swallows diving
  into her buttock crack”.

• In 2007 London Lite contrasted the “gay glamour” of American actress Goldie Hawn with the “more relaxed, boho look” of her daughter, actress Kate Hudson, noting that “keeping
  the colours neutral, [Hudson]’s careful not to break any style rules, with classy knitwear and good-quality accessories”.

• [110] Some of the teenaged rock bands, such as Second Sex[111] and the Plastiscines, that emerged in France c. 2006 and were known collectively as les bébés rockers (“baby
  rockers”), were initially derided in some sections of the press because of their bobo backgrounds: as Kate Spicer observed in the Sunday Times, “it’s as if a bunch of privileged Islington kids had picked up their guitars and proclaimed themselves
  the new Sex Pistols”.

• Boho-chic is a style of fashion drawing on various bohemian and hippie influences, which, at its height in late 2005 was associated particularly with actress Sienna Miller,
  model Kate Moss in the United Kingdom and actress/businesswoman Mary-Kate Olsen in the United States.

• [104] French bobos and similar stylists[edit] In the world of Parisian fashion, the term bobo (short for Bourgeois Bohème), which also had political connotations, was applied
  to “typically discerning customers who are left wing and Left Bank”;[105] or, put another way, “that subset of thirty- or forty-something-year-olds who don’t allow their socialist leanings to interfere with an enjoyment of material pleasures”.

• In April 2004, the British-born fashion writer Plum Sykes was quoted as saying of a lynx mini-top, “Very cool, very bohemian, very Kate Moss–y”;[52] and in 2006 Times fashion
  editor Lisa Armstrong described a plaited leather belt of the previous year as a “Boho ‘Kate’ belt”.

• “Boho-by-default” was an unflattering description used by Lisa Armstrong to describe the style of women (“gargoyles” as opposed to “summer goddesses”) who, for summer wear,
  “drag the same greying, crumpled boho-by-default mess out of storage every year”.

• [5] In Arthur Conan Doyle’s first short story about Holmes for The Strand, Doctor Watson noted that the detective “loathed every form of society with his whole Bohemian soul”
  and “remained in our lodgings in Baker-street, buried among his old books and alternating from week to week between cocaine and ambition..”.

• Once they had spotted new fashions, young women were not prepared to wait a season for them to become available and, consequently, the familiar boundaries between summer wear
  and that for autumn and winter were becoming blurred.

• In fact the Australian journalist Laura Demasi used the term “boho-chic” as early as October 2002 with reference to Moss and Jade Jagger.

• The writer and historian A. N. Wilson remarked that, “in his dress-sense as in much else”, Winston Churchill was “pre-First World War Bohemian”, his unbleached linen suit
  causing surprise when he arrived in Canada in 1943.

• [100] Another British commentator referred to Mary-Kate Olsen’s “everything-but-the-kitchen-sink approach to dressing”, but noted that, by 2006, the Olsens’ merchandising
  empire was recording annual sales of £500 million.

• This particular trend is inspired by the casual American fashion of the 1960s, but as the counterculture included the influences of earlier time periods in its eclectic embrace
  of style and personal values, it often includes hints of the Victorian, a nod to the fabrics and details of the 1940s, or a homage to the intellectuals of the 1950s.

• In December 2004, Vogue featured Miller on its front cover and described her as “the girl of the year”.

• [14] Trends Sienna Miller in the mid 2000s[edit] Sienna Miller’s relationship with – and, for a time, engagement to – actor Jude Law, after they had starred together in the
  2004 film, Alfie, kept both her and her style of dress[15] in the media headlines during 2004–05.

• I now feel that way about almost every dress of Matthew’s I have worn”.

• [57] One reviewer observed of Miller’s role that “Caitlin is meant to be a boho girl and free spirit, which is a posh way of saying she’s a drunk who is promiscuous”.

• [109] Around the same time, another British actress Karen Gillan, best known as Amy Pond in the BBC’s science-fiction series Doctor Who, defined the look of 1960s model Jean
  Shrimpton, whom she greatly admired and had just portrayed in a filmed drama for television, as “messy, waifish, bony”.

• Children’s fashion[edit] Many parents have also embraced the Boho Chic trends and elements to create and purchase apparel for their children.

• [47] Later in the year the Sunday Times lauded the “haute hippie, bohemian splendour and punked up classics” that were putting “a modern spin on 1970s style”.

• [37] Another, rather distinctive, exponent of the “vintage” look was actress and singer Zooey Deschanel, who, in June 2008, appeared on the front cover of the magazine BlackBook
  in a black lace-edged swimsuit.

• [26] Jagger modelled for designer Matthew Williamson, whose style has been described as combining “Ibiza glamour” with “London cool”.

• [70] The newspaper referred to this style, which had been a feature of collections for Autumn 2006 by Christian Dior and John Galliano, as “boho-rock” and noted that both
  Sienna Miller and Kate Moss had adopted it.

• [50] Influence and exponents Kate Moss and Sienna Miller[edit] Many, including actress Lindsay Lohan,[51] attributed the boho look to supermodel Kate Moss (who in 1997 had
  been associated, through an advertising campaign for Calvin Klein, with the so-called “heroin chic” or “waif” look).

• [2] Lisa Armstrong, fashion editor of the London Times, referred to Patrick Lichfield’s iconic 1969 photograph of Talitha Getty on a Marrakesh roof-top as “typif[ying] the
  luxe bohemian look”[3] Lexicography “Boho”[edit] “BoHo” is a shortened form of bohemian, self descriptive of the style.

• Virginia Nicholson (granddaughter of Vanessa Bell, one of the pivotal figures of the unconventional, but influential “Bloomsbury Group” in the first half of the 20th century)
  has described it as a “curious slippery adjective”.

• [48] By the late autumn of 2010 The Times noted the desirability in the UK of fake fur (“Recession chic lets Britain go full pelt for the fake fur”), with Marks and Spencer
  and Sainsbury’s TU retailing bestselling coats at a time of economic stringency.

• [108] A leading exponent was actress and singer Vanessa Paradis, who particularly favoured the designs of Isabel Marant (born 1967), while English actress Michelle Dockery,
  best known for her part as Lady Mary Crawley in the early 20th century drama Downton Abbey (2010–14), cited Anglo-French actress Charlotte Gainsbourg as one of her style icons: “I love that she looks like she’s just thrown it on.

• [77] Indeed, Welch herself declared her attraction to “doomed romantic heroines, like Tennyson’s [poem] The Lady of Shalott”[78] The cover of Welch’s second album Ceremonials
  (2011) drew very clearly on later Pre-Raphaelite images.

• [43] In 2010, the winning German entry for the Eurovision Song Contest proclaimed, “I even did my hair for you/I bought new underwear, they’re blue” (Satellite, sung by Lena).

• First motivated by Seattle’s groundbreaking rock scene in the 1990s – the modern update contains all the mainstays of yesterday’s grunge (flannel, plaid, layers and leg warmers)
  alongside today’s sophisticated pieces, including capes, shawls and jackets ([www.theitlists.com], Sept 2006).

• [89] Almost an extension of “festival chic”, the Telegraph coined the term “foho” to describe the evolution of the boho style in the summer of 2007.

 

Works Cited

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6. ^ A Scandal in Bohemia,
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74. ^ Tatler,
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Times Saturday Review, 29 October 2011.
78. ^ Quoted in The Times Saturday Review, loc.cit.
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88. ^ Style, 16 January 2005
89. ^ Style, 2 July
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90. ^ Clare Coulson, The birth of Foho , 16 May 2007
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92. ^ Dean Nelson, Sunday Times, 15 October 2006
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99. ^ Kristale Ivezay, The South End, 8 April 2005
100. ^ Quoted in The Times Body & Soul, 9 August 2008
101. ^ Jessica Brinton, Style, 22 October 2006
102. ^ Jessica Paster,
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103. ^ Giles Hattersley in Sunday Times Style, 17 July 2011
104. ^ Metro, 13 May 2010
105. ^ Carola Long in The Times Guide to Paris Fashion and Style, October 2006
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107. ^ Sunday Times Style, 25 March 2007
108. ^ The Times Guide to Paris Fashion and Style October 2006
109. ^ The Times Luxx, 26 November 2011. Dockery added that, when wearing long dresses, she tried not to look “too Downton Abbey …
I like to make it a little bit more edgy”.
110. ^ Sunday Times Magazine, 1 January 2012
111. ^ Second Sex took their name from the book of that name (1949) by Simone de Beauvoir.
112. ^ Sunday Times Style, 25 March 2007. Islington is an upper-middle
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114. ^ Sunday Times, 18 July 2010
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117. ^
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Photo credit: https://www.flickr.com/photos/sleepyjeanie/5497730366/’]